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| Ready for Holiday feasts |
| Magazine Articles - Local Foods & Wine |
| Tuesday, 28 October 2008 07:54 |
© Photo Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp
As days darken and grow shorter, cold winds blow across the Midwestern plains. August harvest is over and fall color has fallen from the trees. On the surface, nature’s gone underground for the long, cold, dark winter. But the surface deceives. In Indiana we find a bounty of meats, root vegetables, squashes, rich butters and creams, apple cider and native fruits. As families return home, and friends visit from afar, it’s time to light the candles, share our rich heritage and celebrate the holidays. In a recent survey by the National Restaurant Association, chefs ranked serving local products second out of 194 “hot” trends and ranked serving organic produce third. “Additional research shows that 86 percent of fine dining restaurants use locally sourced items, and so do three out of five casual dining and family dining restaurants,” said Annika Stensson of the Restaurant Association. Indiana consumers benefit, too, as chefs, restaurant owners, caterers, small delis and specialty food stores offer us more and more local options. Indiana consumers can purchase and prepare local dinners, eat at restaurants featuring local products or hire caterers who use and appreciate Hoosier foodstuffs. “Indiana has always had farmers and producers,” says Steve Bonney, president of Sustainable Earth in Lafayette, a notfor- profit dedicated to the development of sustainable farming and food systems. “What we lacked were consumers to buy the products.” Take the tale of farmer Greg Gunthorp of LaGrange. Gunthorp bucked the trend toward large, contained animal feeding operations, called CAFOs, and raised livestock the old-fashioned way. For his first sale, he slaughtered a hog, put it on ice in the back of his GEO hatchback and headed for Chicago, where he made his first sale to internationally acclaimed chef Charlie Trotter. With other high-end Chicago clients, including Frontera Grill, Gunthorp Farms has grown in reputation and esteem.However, until last year, Gunthorp Farms products weren’t sold in Indiana.
Country Mouse, City Mouse
Farmer’s Market Baked Breakfast
SERVES 6 TO 8
If these brands are not available near you, feel free to substitute with your favorites.
This holiday season, Goose the Market in Indianapolis is featuring Gunthorp Farm heritage turkeys and hams. Owned by Chris and Mollie Eley, Goose is in the vanguard in promoting local producers and purveyors. “People want to know where their food comes from. They are asking how it is raised, what it is, how it is slaughtered or harvested,” Chris Eley said. “They are, in particular, asking for foods that are wholesome, flavorful.” Caterer Erin Edds of Indianapolis’ Country Mouse, City Mouse said, “Chris has opened so many eyes to what’s possible and what’s around us.” If you don’t have time to cook a Gunthorp turkey or ham, but you want your guests to experience Hoosier holiday bounty, Edds and sister Katy Jones can cater your party. The sisters launched their business earlier this year with seasonal local sauces, vinaigrettes and flavored, or compound butters, quickly winning a following at farmers’ markets and specialty stores across central Indiana. Zionsville natives, Edds and Jones worked alongside their mother, a caterer, when they were children. After high school, they left the state, but Indiana called them back to carry on the catering tradition started by their mother. This holiday season, Country Mouse City Mouse will highlight local produce and meats and, above all else, taste. “Appetizers and finger foods serve as the main meal, but we are available to cater full-service dinners,” Edds said. Customers can pick up their orders or have them delivered. Country Mouse, City Mouse uses only 100 percent biodegradable packaging and this holiday, they’ll use cloth napkins. Country Mouse, City Mouse will feature the rich, hardy, dulcet tones of pumpkin, sweet potato, celeriac, parsnips and other root vegetables in their sauces. After lavishing your guests with a heartland holiday meal, surprise them with a gift of Erin and Katy’s gourmet cheese balls, tortes or a trio of compound, butters. To treat your guests to lunch or dinner at a restaurant featuring Indiana cuisine, head to Bloomington where serving local is a tradition, not a trend.
Seasonal flavors — FARMBloomington’s owner and chef Daniel Orr creates persimmon tiramisu for dessert. Photo courtesy FARMBloomington
Down the street, is Finch’s Brasserie (formerly Trulli Flatbread), where you can huddle around a wood-burning stove while dining. Owners Jeff and Candace Finch serve local grass-fed meats and style the menu selections to reflect the smoky richness of meat slow-cooked in their signature stove.
As consumers turn away from
rampant and mindless spending, the
gift of time and fellowship is what we
cherish at this time of year. Savor the
holidays by spending it with loved ones
enjoying meals created locally. RESOURCES:
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Images of vast oil slicks, lifeless marine mammals, fish, and birds, and devastated fishermen fill our minds as we envision the extraordinary pain unleashed on the world of the Gulf Coast. For the people of Indiana, hundreds of miles away from making a direct impact, what must we do to mend a world so harmed?
Hoosiers, possessing a vast highway network and endeared to the Indy 500, must join a national effort to end our addiction to oil. While use of oil has done much good for commerce and family life, it has also caused great harm to our air, water, and land, as well as our national security and economy: In our daily lives, we—who bear responsibility for our oil addiction—must pledge to find biodegradable substitutes to our plastic containers and commit to walking, biking, and carpooling whenever safely possible. And as citizens, we Hoosiers must champion the cause of finding a sustainable, dedicated source of funding for public transit and passenger rail, two oil-saving strategies grossly underfunded in our state.
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As we reel through endless intoxicating days of summer, opening the screen door onto a verdant garden on any morning evokes big-time wonder, mystery, and promise; like the rush a mother gets when her child is born, or the matchless, humbling feeling brought on by contemplative time alone in nature; a sacred curtsy to what’s beyond the daily concerns of secular life.
There’s nothing more therapeutic than the pre-dawn perfume expressed from fragrant basil leaves sodden with morning dew, inhaling deep whiffs of the ethereal aroma. Or a hazy, sweltering dog-day afternoon buzzing with bees and fickle butterflies as the solar clothes-dryer softly sways with sheets, towels, and socks. One scent or solitary sound stimulates unexpected, momentary memories worth storing away like Ball jars of saffron-hued summer sunbeams lining the shelves in the larder of the soul.
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