Vents, insulation, barriers, sealants and attic ventilators aid energy conservation.
We all know that heat rises, which is why, if the attic isn’t insulated properly, a home loses energy in winter. The same is true during summer months, when already cooled air escapes from poorly insulated attics, too. In fact, an uninsulated attic is the worst culprit when it comes to energy leaks.
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There are three essentials to keep energy and your dollars from going through the roof: insulation, ventilation and sealing.
The biggest leaks come from areas where the walls meet the attic floor, above drop ceilings and overhangs and behind attic walls. In addition, air can leak through recessed-can ceiling lights, electrical wiring spaces, attic hatches or doors and around chimneys or flues, said Mark Jansen, an energy auditor at Energy Efficient Homes Midwest in Indianapolis.
Seal all light fixtures, light switches and other penetrations through the drywall, as well as penetrations through the material that separates the house from the attic, said Jansen, who certifies Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design construction. Called LEED, the organization has established nationally accepted benchmarks for the design, construction and operation of high-performance green practices and buildings.
"A professional energy audit before you try to do anything" often will reveal low- or no-cost ways to reduce energy loss and save money, he said. And, Jansen said, make sure not to seal the roof vents, which are essential for air circulation.
"Some roof installers will not guarantee their work if there is no ventilation," said Robert Kramer, director of the Energy Efficiency and Reliability Center at Purdue University Calumet in Hammond, Ind. He also emphasized the importance of attic ventilation.
{sidebar id=3} "To keep humidity down, ventilation is important. It would also help increase the life of the roof." A variety of vents, including ridge, louver and wind-turbine, will do the job. These types of vents are considered passive because they do not require electricity to work.
In some cases, attic ventilators are installed to help circulate the air. There are two types, one that depends on electricity to work and some that operate on solar power. And, here’s where the great debate begins over attic ventilators.
"There have been studies showing that the amount of money you’d save on air conditioning by having the roof a little cooler would be less than the amount of electricity involved in running it (power attic ventilator)," Kramer said. A few companies have developed solar-powered attic ventilators.
Each house has different heating and cooling costs, so those interested in installing a solar-powered ventilator should compare the cost of the device, installation and solar cells to their bills, Kramer said.
Homeowners should be sure whichever type they buy has an automatic shut-off sensor to prevent the fast spread of fire.
If the barrier between house and attic is not sealed, a fan in the attic can suck the conditioned air out of the house, said Alan Kent of Kent Heating & Air Conditioning in Northwest Indiana.
"You want an air-tight seal between the conditioned and unconditioned air," he said. Before adding or replacing insulation make sure to seal the area where the drywall meets the top plate. A top plate is the portion of a frame wall that supports ceiling joists, rafters and interior walls.
Another simple and inexpensive way to prevent air-conditioned or heated air from escaping through the attic is to install a radiant barrier, Kent said.
Radiant barriers are made of a highly reflective material that can be laid on top of existing attic insulation. It should be 9 inches of cellulose, which is denser than fiberglass, Kent said.
All of the experts interviewed agreed. Homeowners who adopt any of these practices will keep energy loss at a minimum and savings at a maximum.
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